Wild ducks and quail are lean, strongly flavoured, and easy to dry out. A proper brine before cooking solves all of these problems at once.
The Science
Brining works through osmosis. A bird submerged in a saltwater solution initially loses moisture to the solution (the salt concentration is higher outside). As equilibrium is approached, the bird then absorbs brine — this time carrying dissolved salt and flavour compounds into the muscle fibres. The final result is a bird with higher moisture content, seasoned throughout the flesh rather than on the surface, and with proteins partially denatured in a way that improves their water-retention during cooking.
For lean wild game birds that have no fat to baste themselves, this moisture retention is the difference between dry and excellent.
Basic Brine Formula
60g salt per litre of cold water. Enough brine to completely submerge the bird. This is the minimum — adjust aromatics to your taste.
Duck Brine (for 2 whole ducks)
- 2 litres cold water
- 120g salt
- 60g brown sugar
- 4 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 orange, sliced
- 6 juniper berries
- 2 bay leaves, fresh thyme, black pepper
Combine, stir until salt and sugar dissolved. Submerge ducks completely (weight them down with a plate if necessary). Refrigerate 12–24 hours. Remove, rinse under cold water, pat completely dry before cooking.
Quail Brine (for 8 quail)
- 1 litre cold water
- 60g salt
- 30g honey
- 1 lemon, sliced
- Fresh rosemary and thyme
2–4 hours only for quail — they are small and over-brine quickly, producing an unpleasantly salty result.
After brining, quail are excellent spatchcocked and grilled over charcoal. Brined ducks roast beautifully at 200°C — the skin crisps more readily due to the surface dryness that follows thorough patting.
