Wild rabbit is free, plentiful, and excellent eating if you know which cut to cook which way. Here are the three methods that together use the whole animal.
Understanding the Cuts
A rabbit breaks down into: two back legs, two front legs, and the saddle (the loin section across the back). These three sections have different muscle structures and require different cooking approaches. Treat them the same and you will ruin at least two of the three. Treat them differently and you use the whole animal well.
The Back Legs: Slow Braise
The back legs are the rabbit's primary working muscle β dense, well-exercised, and full of collagen. Braising in white wine, chicken stock, mustard, and tarragon for 1.5β2 hours produces meat that falls from the bone and a sauce that is extraordinary on pasta or with good bread. This is the most forgiving preparation β hard to overcook in a covered pot at 150Β°C.
Quick method: Brown the legs in butter, remove. Sweat onion and garlic in the same pan. Add 200ml white wine, 200ml chicken stock, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, and a handful of fresh tarragon. Return legs, cover, 1.5 hours at 160Β°C. Stir cream through the sauce at the end.
The Saddle: Pan-Fried
The saddle loin is delicate, lean, and quick-cooking β the opposite of the legs. It needs 3β4 minutes total in a hot pan with butter and herbs, basted continuously. Remove at 62Β°C internal and rest for 5 minutes. Serve immediately β it cools fast.
The Front Legs and Carcass: Stock
The front legs and the carcass (after removing the saddle) make the finest light game stock available from a domestic pot. Roast the bones at 200Β°C for 20 minutes until golden, then simmer with onion, carrot, celery, peppercorns, bay, and thyme for 2 hours. Strain and reduce. Freeze in 200ml portions. It improves every sauce you make from it for the next three months.